November Whiskey Creative

Paris

 Here’s my overall on Paris:  It is fantastically walkable, but big enough that you’ll want to either plan to be in areas of the city to walk around within or take the Metro.  The Metro is kind of a mix between the NYC and London subways, I think.  Depending on the station, you can either transfer super easily, or you’re going to have to walk 3 miles underground and go up 3 flights of stairs, down 2, up another, and then down 5 more.  Depending on how much luggage you have with you, and depending on your travel plans, I think an Uber or cab to/from the airport is worth it.  Also, buses can sometimes be quicker around the city than Metro and are pretty easy.  


If you’re flying into DeGaulle, there’s an easy train into the city from the airport and you could always get a cab to your hotel once you get into Paris if you don’t want to take metro with luggage. Uber works well too. 


Touristy things, and my thoughts on them:

  • Eiffel Tower: I’ve never gone up it, and don’t feel like I’m missing much—what’s the point of the Paris skyline if you don’t see the Eiffel Tower?  Mainly, it’s fun to see it up close, and if it’s nice you can have a little picnic on the lawns there.  Also, the last time I was there we made a point to see it at night when they do the light show, because we hadn’t ever.  It was cool, but I’d say more of something that if you’re near a place where you can see it (even in the distance), great.  Not worth a special trip unless you REALLY like lit up landmarks.  I think now they’ve made barriers and have an entry point to get up close to it which sucks.  Not sure if you need a ticket. There are barriers around it now. You have to pass through security to gain access. If you want to go up, you need a ticket. Book at least a week in advance. You don’t have to go all the way up. Taking the elevator to the second floor is worth the thrill if you want to check that box.

  • Louvre: I mean…it’s the Louvre.  Kind of like any other big museum in that you can see the major pieces of art, wander and find other cool things.  If you’re feeling museum-y, or if it’s raining and you need a place to spend some time, it’s nice.  The outside is particularly pretty, and close to other things if you’re doing a wander in that general area or need a starting point. Try booking a 3:00 PM entry time. Doesn’t eat up your whole day and avoids the AM rush.

  • Musée d’Orsay: all Impressionist art in an old train station.  The building itself is half of the appeal.  HOWEVER.  Lines were so long when I was there last that we didn’t go.  For any museums, I’d recommend booking online so you don’t waste time in line. 

  • Musée Rodin: I love this museum.  It’s all Rodin, so if you like sculpture and Rodin, you’re good.  It’s small-ish, but in an old mansion with cool gardens.  Wouldn’t take up tons of time, if you’re looking for a morning or afternoon diversion.  

  • l’Orangerie: small museum in the Tuileries gardens, wasn’t my fave—I’d skip unless you’re dying for some modern art. 

  • Bateaux-Mouches: boats that go up and down the Seine with audio telling you what everything is.  Good if you want a broad overview of some of the stuff above, nothing super special unless you really like boats.  

  • You can tell how long ago I wrote this! Notre Dame:  in my opinion, the coolest part is the towers.  The church is another European cathedral, with some famous people buried there.  If that’s your thing, go for it.  You can do the tower tour by itself—you walk up a trillion winding stairs and then you’re on the roof and can see the whole city.  Last time I was there the bells rang while we were up there, which was fun.  And, gargoyles.  If you do this, look up opening time and go get in line early.  I think we got there 30 mins before it opened and then probably waited another 30 or so.  Entrance is on the left hand side as you’re looking at the front.  

  • Sacre Coeur/Montmartre: I haven’t been to the inside of Sacre Coeur, but have been to the area and walked up the hill around the outside.  The Montmartre area around it is pretty and neighborhood-y.  Like all the 1930s pictures of Paris pretty.  The area immediately around Sacre Coeur can be a little pickpocket heavy. It’s a quick walk up the hill to gain big views of Paris. If you’re planning to visit Montmartre, make the effort to walk up and then you can easily access the back streets of the neighborhood.

  • Arc de Triomphe: It’s a big arch at the end of the Champs d’Elysée.  If you want to check the box to say you’ve seen it, go for it.  Otherwise, eh.  If you don’t go up the Eiffel Tower, the Arc provides another opportunity for big views with much shorter ticket lines.

Other stuffs:

  • Printemps Paris: a big, super pretty department store with fab homewares and stationary type stuff on the top floor.  It might be somewhat crowded, but it’s worth a trip I think.  Especially if you can go on a non-weekend day.  

  • Bon Marché is another big department store, similar to Printemps with a ton of different departments. 

  • Super swanky stores are around Place Vendome, if you want to window shop.  The Ritz is right there, too, if you’re a fan of swanky hotel bars (I am), but it was closed when I was last there.  

  • Ladurée: best macarons ever.  Or, at least in contention.  There are a few different locations, but the bigger ones have more restaurant type service, and it’s just fancy enough to be fun.  Or, just go buy a few and walk around. The combination of Laudurée’s beautiful packaging and presentation is hard to beat. But Ladurée is everywhere now (airports, Georgetown) so it’s not quite as special in my opinion.

  • Left Bank is more artsy and academic than the Right.  Kind of like Downtown vs. Mid or Uptown in NYC.  If you can, I’d pick an area of the city each day and plan something specific you want to do and then just wander all around the rest of the time.  There are a ton of gardens and cafes everywhere so when you get bored or hungry you can just sit and people watch.  

  • The Marais is an area that’s good for that—it’s been the jewish and gay area of the city, and last I was there I realized it’s now also where the hipsters are.  So…the Brooklyn of Paris?  It’s where my (and Lenny Kravitz’s) favorite falafel place is (see below). 

  • Assuming you won’t venture outside of the city to Versailles or Giverny or anything.  Not worth taking time away from Paris if your time is limited.  

  • There are often art exhibits at non-museum places, so check to see what’s on when you’re there. I saw the most amazing Jean-Paul Gaultier exhibit kind of by accident one time.  Signs in the metro are actually also really good for this. 

Food:

Ask at the hotel where the local boulangerie (bread bakery) or patisserie (pastry bakery) is, and hit that up for breakfast each day.  Seriously.  Eat every croissant you can get your hands on.  Or, if you want to sit, I’m sure there will be a café, but their croissants won’t be as good.  


A fromagerie will have all the cheeses you could ever want.  A boucherie (do you sense a theme?) will have the meats.  Make a stop at all of them and you’re set for lunch. 


Also find out where the closest Monoprix is, which is like a grocery store and dept store all in one.  Good place for “let me grab a bottle of wine and cheese for dinner.” AND for “let me buy this 2 kilo bag of French salt for 2 euros that goes for $30 in the US.”


For eating out, some options—most you can book either through their website or La Fourchette, which is the French equivalent to OpenTable.  An “early” dinner is 8pm

  • Ellsworth: I had a steak with bone marrow there that tasted like a bonfire, and I still dream about it. SO good. Book through their website. They also have a wine bar called Verjus that is right next door but doesn’t take reservations.  I didn’t make it there but it looked amazing, too.  

  • Cafe Trama: on the left bank. Kind of upscale cafe, more casual but great food. The croque Monsieur was really good. Like a gourmet version. I made reservations when I was there—when we got there it was empty, but filled up quickly so I was glad that I had.  Permanently closed

  • Le Perchoir: AMAZING. Rooftop bar, tasting menu restaurant one floor down.  If you go, entry is not obvious, but walk into the courtyard, past the spiral staircase and take the elevator on the right all the way up.  

  • JBC: fab sandwiches, takeaway only. 

  • Les Cocottes.  Near the Eiffel Tower, which is otherwise not great for food.  It’s one of two places that the same chef owns, (Christian Constant is his name I think, and the other place is Café Constant? Maybe?).  Both are near each other and good.  Les Cocottes was great for lunch.  AMAZING beef bourguignon.  Very frenchy, and on a weekday full of workers eating a leisurely lunch with wine. 

  • La Fontaine de Mars. 10 minute walk from Eiffel Tower and down the street from Les Cocottes (see above). Gorgeous place and the best food. Perfect service. 

  • Au Pied Cochon. Near Les Halles and Louvre. Open since 1947. A little touristy but great people watching and good food.

  • L’As du Falafel.  In the Marais.  Lenny Kravitz tested, me approved!  You can sit or takeaway—both will likely have a line but it’s pretty efficient and quick, if a little frenetic.  The Falafel Especial is the go-to order, but they have other stuff as well.  There are other places right around there, but go for the original and make sure it’s the right one! Green and yellow front.  Close early on Fri and I think all of Sat for Sabbath so check the hours.  Not far from Place des Vosges if you want to take them to go and sit in a park.   

  • Holybelly  Two breakfast focused restaurants on the same street with different menus. I’ve been to the one that’s more typical breakfast, pancakes, etc. Not “french” but good food and if you need something familiar it’s good. 

Some favorite shops: 

  • Merci: near the Marais, they have clothes, homewares, vintage furniture, linens, etc. Sort of a boutique but supersized.  Entrance is down a little courtyard, you’ll see a red Mini in front of the door.  They have a café next door.

  • Ateliers Auguste: expensive but gorgeous bags and leather goods. I splurged on a bag that I love but now they have a bigger selection and I want them all. 


Hotels and places I’ve bookmarked but haven’t been to: 

Great hotel situated on the borders of Pigalle and Montmartre. Very French in the best way; small/minimalist but comfortable rooms with big windows that open out to the street. Owned by the Orso Hotel group. Wonderful staff. Everyone is young and seems happy to work there. Hotel has a beautiful brasserie on the main floor where a full breakfast is served. Food is also good for dinner. The rooftop of the hotel is probably worth a stay alone. It’s small and folks line up on weekends to get in (hotel guests do not need a reservation and can take the elevator up at any time). The views go on forever from Sacre Coeur to Eiffel. The one downside to this hotel is its on a busy street with some not so pretty neighbors. Walk a block or two in either direction and it gets better immediately but it’s not picture perfect when you arrive or walk out the front door. I’m guessing this hotel group knows things are changing and the street may clean up sooner than later. There are loads of cafes all around. You really can’t go wrong. We liked taking a short walk down to Place Saint-Georges (or Saint George square) which is a quiet little local area with a couple cafes surrounding the statue. This is a nice stop on the way down to museums or a pit stop on the way home. Near the square is the original location of a charming and historic sweet shop, À la Mère de Famille. Worth a visit for gorgeous marzipan, chocolates, ice cream, etc  if you’re in the neighborhood.


Hotels I’ve stayed at: 

  • https://www.hoteldanube.fr/en/ Haven’t stayed there in years but I loved it—smaller, but great location and very french.  Looks like they have a family room.